Presta valves come in different lengths too. Fortunately, we were carrying a few patches and could fix the punctured tube. Presta valve inner tubes are available from a range of makers with valve lengths up to 80mm.
If your wheels are even deeper than the longest valve you can find, you can buy valve extenders to add length to your valve. Valve extenders screw onto the top of the Presta valve. Some are just hollow tubes, others include a valve at the top, which means that you need to remove the valve core from your inner tube before screwing on the extender.
Also look out for valve rattle with deeper section wheels. One of the big advantages of a tubeless setup is that the sealant inside the tyre should seal many of the flats that typically bedevil the bike rider. Another option is to put sealant into a normal inner tube. And some sealants will weaken latex tubes, causing them to fail, so make sure that your combo is compatible. Both brands also sell anti-puncture liners that sit between the inner tube and the tyre tread.
To recap: a tubeless setup removes the need for an inner tube the clue is in the name. Instead, the tyre creates an airtight seal with the rim to hold pressure, just like a car tyre.
Tubeless tyres are used in conjunction with sealant, added to the tyre during installation. The sealant should fill the kind of small cuts that could otherwise cause a flat with an inner tube. With that in mind, a tubeless setup should result in fewer punctures. On the other hand, getting an airtight seal can sometimes be tricky when setting up tubeless tyres, particularly with high-pressure road tyres. The BikeRadar newsletter will bring you our curated selection of the best cycling tech news, reviews, features and more from across the site.
Just enter your email address below to get started. Thank you for signing up to the BikeRadar newsletter! You can unsubscribe at any time. For more information about how we hold your personal data, please see our privacy policy. But what do those letters and numbers all mean? On some of the tubes, the code simply represents the product code, for example the ECC However, the American designation often contains some information about the tube.
The 12AU7 for example can be split into several parts:. Any extra letters often refer to an update in the version number, or an adjustment by the factory. They needed to distinguish it from the old version. Tube used to be used in a range of electronic equipment computers, radio, TV and general electrics but was replaced by the transistor which you get in standard solid state guitar amplifiers.
First we need to look at the parts of the tube to understand how they work. Most tubes, but not all of them contain these components. The first component that truly is common to all tube types is the filament. The filament is the part of a vacuum tube that you see glowing when the amplifier is powered on. When an electrical current flows through the filament, it creates both heat and light. The heat is essential for working with the following component — the cathode:.
The cathode is an element located next to the filament so they can best work together. It is negatively charged. It has a coating on it that when heated by the filament , releases electrons. That is the whole point of the cathode, to release free electrons into the vacuum tube after being heated. Electrons work like a magnet - a positively charged electron is attracted to a negatively charged electron and vice versa. After being released from the cathode, the electrons flow to the next component — the anode, due to this charged attraction.
The next element is called the anode, or plate. It's job is simply to attract the free electrons released by the cathode after being heated by the filament. The grid is a charged piece of metal located between the anode and the cathode.
If the grid is negatively charged, then the flow from the anode to the cathode is reduced. This is because a negative from the cathode and negative force from the grid repels. However, if the grid is positively charged then the flow of electrons in accelerated since positive and negative attract.
This is the amplification in action. The amplification process also adds that tube distortion to the mix. So to summarise — the filament is the heat generator. This heat then causes the cathode to release electrons towards the anode due to the negative to positive flow. For beginners I have oversimplified this process in order to aid understanding, if you want specifics check out the further reading at the bottom. Also this video help explains the process very well:.
Some small, some big, some long and thin. A diode is a two element tube that does not have a grid mentioned above. Nearly all electronics need to turn AC into DC. A diode tube also needs the help of some capacitors to make this possible. The rectifier will usually work in conjunction with the transformer. A preamp will amplify the signal and prepare it for further amplification by the power tubes.
A triode is the tube which usually does this. A triode is the most common sort of tube. They can amplify the signal but also create some distortion. Triodes can combine signals and split them into two separate signals.
They can also invert the polarity or phase of a signal. Power tubes further amplify and drive your signal. They are required on larger amps in order to drive the bigger speakers. Tetrodes and Pentodes are usually used in the power amp section, as they are capable of amplifying your input signal much higher than a standard triode.
Tetrodes are four-element tubes and pentodes are five-element tubes. Typically, these tubes work in a similar way to triodes but have additional elements called screens. Screens are usually in between the cathode and anode. There are different types of tubes in one of the three groups above which all can all sound different.
They can sound better or worse at different points along the sound spectrum which results in different uses. And then alternate brands can sound different when compared to a competitors equivalent. Explaining the different brands of tubes get tricky.
Any other brands you see are rebrands of these three main factories. For example some of the stock Fender, Marshall and Mesa Boogie tubes are rebranded from these factories. There are subtle differences between the three factories, the below are some generalisations about the different tube brands.
Everyone has a brand that they like. There are numerous posts online saying X brand is terrible, while there are as many posts saying that brand X is the best out there. Also you get people saying "I replaced brand X with brand Y and brand Y sound much better! And new tubes sound better than old worn out tubes. You can't compare old tubes to new tubes. So it's not a fair comparison.
The only way to know is to try a certain tube for yourself. He is a nice guy although he sucks to talk too in my opinion, on the phone he is very tight and kind of rude which is other people's opinion too so I know it's not just me who thinks that BTW. Hi, I really love your article. Learned a lot from it. Thank you!
First off let's give some general advice : If you want to replace Power tubes on your amp, after the replacement you should adjust the Bias or have it adjusted by someone who can do it without risking his life , in order to use it at their best and avoid to ruin your power amp.
If you want to learn more about how to set the bias, check out This Page. Preamp tubes instead cannot be biased or adjusted, you can just replace them.
Also you don't need to use except for exceptional cases preamplifier tubes of the same brand, you can use a different brand for each position, if you wish.
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